I want to
write about fear, and about being a mystic. I want to write about stones, and
fire, and the stars.
But instead
I will write about pilgrims, because that´s what I know most about, and that´s
what people expect and enjoy. I found
our first pilgrim register today, fallen behind the bookshelf. We ask pilgrims to put their name in a register
book, the date they arrive, and where they´re from. Then we stamp their pilgrim
credential with our “sello.” It´s just what´s done.
The books
are not fascinating reading, unless you are me.
Jean-Marc doesn´t see the appeal |
The first signature
is from 12 October 2006, nine days after we bought the little farm that became
the Peaceable Kingdom. It´s Kathy, my best friend from California. Three days
later, Marianne´s name is there. Marianne was a German-speaking Swiss, a
hospitalera, a strange bird. She ran the shelter at Eunate for a season, I
served there with her the following January, and just about froze to death.
Here´s my
friend Filipe from Portugal. He brought us a slab of salt cod we tried to soak back
to useability, but the only place large enough was the sheep trough in the
patio. Birds came and pecked it to bits.
Here is Sebastian from Belgium, who stayed to help us fix up the place,
and Bernd from Braunschweig, on the run from the law. Here´s my daughter Libby,
who visited that darksome, muddy February. I drove her all the way to Bilbao to
catch a bus, and when I got home I found Berndt and Sebastian and one of the
villagers kicking the tar out of one another in the dark, in the street.
Here´s Anselmo,
a blithe spirit from Valencia, a forest ranger. Colin and Margaret from Walkes,
and Frank, the merry Scotsman who taught us to be hospitaleros. John Murphy,
the man whose name we gave to our first and finest cat. Ann, who´s now a
hospitalero each October in Grado, all these years later… People with heroic names: Doug Challenger. Christian
Champion. Dael, a policeman in a kilt.
Patrik Kotrba, a Czech art historian turned hobo. Alan, a CIA agent who didn´t
know he was dying. Mike, a fresh-faced boy from Ohio who´s now living in
Santiago, writing guides as “The Wise Pilgrim.”
Tomas
Konopa lived in Holland but he was a Croat. He came and helped, and came back
to help some more. He was a shipwright, a hard drinker, veteran of the horrors
of Bosnian war. His DNA is in this place. I wonder how he´s getting on. I think
he might be dead.
Here´s
Paddy´s son Matt, who designed the Peaceable sello, and Michael, a
priest-in-training from Hawaii. Hedwigs, Heidis, Jennifers, Janes, Ragnhilds,
Cristobals, Bobs and Timos, Kevins and Claires and Jyo-Jeong Kims.
Here´s a
Korean family of nine, spreading the Gospel, and my old bestie Jeanne and my
godson Nicolas, here from Paris for a disastrous visit in 2008.
Then came
Malin and David, still so important to us, and Philip, my son. And the
guitarists came, too, the first sello from Camino Artes, the first concerts.
Paddy´s old London friends Derek and Rimmer, blown-away at what Patrick´s life
had come to.
And Kim´s
in here, too. The names in the book thank her for her kindness, because she was
hosting them right alongside us. She´s been here almost from the very start,
Kim.
Here is
Brian from Pittsburgh, who was not who he said he was, and Leo from Cuba, who
is exactly what you see. A recording
crew from Israel, who made a guitar and violin album at our church. Stretches
of Korean text, Japanese characters, Cyrillic letters, unreadable.
I close the
book, only three years into our history. Golden years, terrifying times. Such
giants walked the trail in those days… We
had so many people in and out of here, and we didn´t wear out the way we do now.
We took them more easy then. I remember the pilgrims as more easy-going,
flexible, ready to stop and talk and come home for coffee, to sleep on the sofa
or even the floor.
We only get
the full pilgrim flow in winter, but it´s not so easy nowadays. Maybe it´s us who´ve changed, life is more comfortable
now with heated floors and a laundry machine. We are older, more tired, less
willing to shlep out to the storage room in the morning dark when more jam is
needed.
Paddy is
getting beyond all this. And Paddy is more important than strangers from the
trail… this is his home. The pilgrims have other places they can stay. We
should take our names off the Winter Welcome list, I think.
But what would
this place be without the pilgrims? What would I write about? Fear, and mystics,
maybe, or stones, and fire, and the stars.
Who wants
to read about those?