The Month of the Pilgrim continues. It is extraordinary. It is exhausting. Every night this month but one we've had at least two peopl...

Rosalia de Castro, resting between mouse-slayings Spaniards are always astounded to learn we live in rural Palencia year-round. "Qu...

Bruno’s burned-out, gone back to Italy until April. He left us with a big pan of tiramisu and a set of keys to his albergue. And every pilg...

The bag is packed, the tickets printed out, money and pills and notebooks all in order. Train to Madrid, plane to Paris. I will see two g...

If you know me, you know I get a little crazy in January. And here we are, nine whole days in. It has to do with the fog. Most days here ...

If God is everywhere, then everywhere must be holy, no? Sometimes, all you have to do is shut up, and there it is. There's a shimm...

Everybody loves a good Manifesto. Manifestos make you think of burning barricades, tragic youths facing down The Man, overthrows and uproar...